Sihanoukville

A Beach Town in Transformation

I need to be honest about Sihanoukville before I recommend anything, because the town I first visited in 2018 and the town I returned to in 2025 are almost unrecognizable as the same place. The sandy backpacker haven that budget travelers once raved about — cheap bungalows on the beach, sunset cocktails for a dollar, a vaguely anarchic freedom — has been substantially replaced by a Chinese-funded construction boom of towering casinos, half-finished apartment blocks, and a commercial energy that transformed the downtown area beyond recognition.

That said, writing Sihanoukville off entirely would be a mistake, and here is why. Otres Beach, located about 2 kilometers south of the main tourist strip, has maintained much of its original character. The sand is still soft and golden, the water still warm and swimmable, and the collection of beach bars, boutique guesthouses, and seafood restaurants still delivers the coastal Cambodia experience that drew people here in the first place. My most recent visit was spent almost entirely at Otres, and I found it genuinely pleasant — not the untouched paradise of a decade ago, but a functioning, enjoyable beach town with personality.

The real value of Sihanoukville in 2026 is as a gateway. The speed ferries to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem depart from Serendipity Pier, and the islands remain some of the most beautiful in Southeast Asia. Ream National Park, accessible by boat from Sihanoukville, offers mangrove forests, deserted beaches, and wildlife encounters that feel worlds removed from the casino district a few kilometers away. Used strategically — a night at Otres before an early ferry, a day trip to Ream, a seafood dinner watching the sun drop behind the Gulf of Thailand — Sihanoukville still has something to offer.

I arrived on a Giant Ibis bus from Phnom Penh, a comfortable four-hour ride that delivered me to the station in the mid-afternoon. A tuk-tuk to Otres Beach cost $5 and took fifteen minutes. Within an hour of arrival, I was in the ocean with a $2 beer waiting on the sand. Sometimes the best travel moments are the simplest ones.

What Makes Sihanoukville Different

Sihanoukville is a study in contrasts that no other Cambodian destination offers. In one direction, a skyline of construction cranes and casino towers hums with commercial ambition. In the other direction, Otres Beach stretches out with hammocks and driftwood bars and the kind of barefoot-and-sunburn informality that reminds you why you came to Southeast Asia. Understanding both sides is part of the experience.

The coastline itself is Cambodia’s primary draw for beach lovers. The country has a relatively short coastline compared to Thailand or Vietnam, and Sihanoukville controls the largest accessible section. The sand is fine and white where development has not disrupted it, the water temperature rarely drops below 28°C, and the offshore islands create sheltered bays ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Ream National Park protects a large swath of coastal ecosystem including mangroves, coral reefs, and seagrass beds that support dolphins and sea turtles.

What also distinguishes Sihanoukville is affordability. Even with development pushing some prices upward, this remains one of the cheapest coastal destinations in Southeast Asia. A beachfront bungalow at Otres costs $15-25 a night. A full seafood dinner with beer sets you back $8-12. A day trip to the islands with snorkeling, lunch, and transport costs under $30. For travelers who have been priced out of Thai islands or Bali, Cambodia’s coast delivers remarkable value.

What to Do in Sihanoukville

Otres Beach ($0 — just show up)

The best beach in Sihanoukville stretches for roughly 4 kilometers of fine sand. Otres 1, the more developed section, has a cluster of restaurants, bars, and guesthouses directly on the sand. Otres 2 is quieter — more long-term travelers, fewer backpacker bars, and long empty stretches where you can walk for twenty minutes without encountering another person. I preferred Otres 2 for the daytime and walked to Otres 1 for dinner and evening drinks. Rent a beach chair ($2-3) or bring a towel and claim a patch of sand for free.

Island Hopping Day Trips ($25-40)

Several operators at Serendipity Pier and on Otres Beach run day trips to the nearby islands. The typical itinerary includes two or three snorkeling stops, a beach lunch on a small island, and free-flowing drinks on the boat. The snorkeling quality varies — the best reefs are around Koh Rong Sanloem and the smaller islands to the south. I booked through my guesthouse at Otres for $30, which included transport, lunch, snorkeling gear, and water. The coral was healthier than I expected, and the schools of tropical fish at the second stop were dense and colorful.

Ream National Park ($5 entry, boat tour $20-30)

Located 18 kilometers east of Sihanoukville, Ream is one of Cambodia’s most accessible national parks. The half-day boat tour is the highlight — you navigate through narrow mangrove channels where macaques leap between branches and kingfishers flash blue in the canopy, then emerge into open water for a beach stop on a deserted shore. The snorkeling here is surprisingly good if the visibility cooperates. On my visit, the guide spotted a pod of Irrawaddy dolphins in the distance. Full-day tours ($35-50) add jungle trekking and additional beach time.

Sunset at Otres Beach Bar ($0-10)

The daily ritual at Otres is simple and perfect. Find a beach bar — The Deck, Sandan, and Chez Claude are all good options — order a drink ($2-4), sink into a bean bag, and watch the sun set over the Gulf of Thailand. The sky turns theatrical shades of orange and purple almost every evening during dry season. I spent my most satisfying Sihanoukville evenings doing absolutely nothing except watching this show with sand between my toes.

Fresh Seafood BBQ ($5-15)

Several restaurants along Otres Beach and the Sihanoukville port area offer fresh-catch BBQ where you select your fish, prawns, squid, or crab from an ice display and they grill it over charcoal while you wait. Prices are by weight — expect to pay $3-5 per whole fish, $8-12 for prawns, or $10-15 for a crab. The grilled squid with lime and kampot pepper at the fisherman’s stalls near the port was the best I had in Cambodia.

Snorkeling at Koh Ta Kiev ($15-20)

This small island south of Sihanoukville remains relatively undeveloped and offers some of the best shore snorkeling in the area. Day trips run from Otres Beach ($15-20 including transport and gear) and include 2-3 hours of snorkeling and beach time. The coral gardens on the north side of the island are protected from currents and visibility is typically 5-10 meters in dry season. A few rustic bungalow operations on the island offer overnight stays ($10-15) for those wanting a Robinson Crusoe experience.

Where to Eat in Sihanoukville

Chez Claude ($8-18 per person)

A French-Cambodian restaurant on Otres Beach run by a Parisian chef who fell in love with Cambodia and never left. The seafood pasta, fish in banana leaf, and kampot pepper steak are excellent. The wine list is small but curated. This was my dinner spot two of the three nights I spent at Otres — the combination of quality food, beach setting, and reasonable prices is hard to beat.

Sandan Restaurant ($5-10 per person)

A social enterprise restaurant on Otres that trains underprivileged Cambodian youth in cooking and hospitality. The menu ranges from Khmer classics to Western comfort food, all prepared with care. The fish amok and green mango salad are standouts. The setting — open-air tables on the beach — adds value that no amount of restaurant design could replicate.

Otres Market Food Stalls ($1-3 per dish)

The small market area behind Otres Beach has a row of Cambodian food stalls serving the kind of meals locals eat daily. Fried rice ($1.50), noodle soup ($1), grilled chicken with rice ($2), and fruit shakes ($0.75). Nothing fancy, everything genuine. This is where I ate breakfast and lunch most days.

Treasure Oasis ($4-8 per person)

A small restaurant on the road between Otres 1 and 2 that does excellent Khmer home cooking. The owner-chef prepares everything fresh, and the menu changes based on what was good at the market that morning. The lemongrass chicken and the sour soup with fish were both memorable. Cash only.

Nyam ($6-12 per person)

A more upscale option near Serendipity with a menu spanning Khmer, Thai, and international dishes. The rooftop terrace has views toward the port, the cocktails are well-made, and the BBQ ribs are the best non-seafood dish I found in Sihanoukville. A good choice for travelers who want one meal that feels slightly polished.

Where to Stay in Sihanoukville

Budget: Mushroom Point ($12-25/night)

Iconic mushroom-shaped bungalows perched on a hillside above Otres Beach. The accommodation is basic — fan-cooled rooms, shared bathrooms for the cheapest options — but the location, the communal atmosphere, and the views from the terrace are outstanding. The bar serves cheap drinks and attracts a creative, traveler-friendly crowd. This is budget accommodation with personality.

Mid-Range: Tamu Hotel ($45-75/night)

A boutique hotel directly on Otres Beach with a pool, restaurant, and modern rooms that include air conditioning, rain showers, and balconies. The beachfront location means you can go from bed to sand in under a minute. The restaurant is above average, the pool is clean and inviting, and the staff are helpful with booking island trips and transport. My recommendation for mid-range travelers.

Luxury: Sokha Beach Resort ($100-200/night)

The grande dame of Sihanoukville hotels occupies a private stretch of Independence Beach with manicured gardens, multiple pools, a spa, and beach access that is dramatically more polished than the public beaches. The rooms are large and well-appointed, the breakfast buffet is extensive, and the grounds create a resort bubble that insulates you from the construction chaos of downtown. Not the most authentic Cambodian experience, but a comfortable and reliable luxury option.